We set out after breakfast for an early start to view the Tel Dan Nature Reserve, one of the most ancient and beautiful parks in the Upper Galilee. Archaeological finds on the reserve date back as far as 4500 years.
As we were driving, we could see, close by on the left, the Lebanese border. On the right, Yehuda pointed out a pre-1967 Syrian outpost that used to regularly to shell a neighboring kibbutz. Farther along, we saw an arch that was, unusually, pre-Roman in origin. Interestingly, Canaanites living in the region had created arches long before Romans exemplified it in so many of their buildings.
After the death of King Solomon (928 BC) and the division of Israel into two kingdoms, that the city of Dan became a major center of worship. Wanting to avoid a migration from the Kingdom of the North towards the Temple in Jerusalem, King Jeroboam built two golden calves for his people to worship. The first Book of Kings tells the fascinating tale of the Israelite's turn to paganism thanks to the wrong doing of King Jeroboam, who placed two tangible gods (two golden calves) in his kingdom. One of the calves was placed in Beit-El, a city located to the north of Jerusalem. The other was given to the city of Dan.
Yehuda pointed an active archaeological site where a stela had been found. The stela, a carved standing stone (the Rosetta stone, for example, is a stela) had been created to commemorate the victory of Ben-hadad, of Damascus, who was in alliance with Asa, the king of Judah against Baasah, the king of Israel around 900 BC. Site where the Dan Stela was found
This stela, called the "Dan Stela" because of the location where it was found, mentions the Israelite city of Dan, which Ben-hadad conquered at that time. It is believed, however, that the stela itself was carved in Damascus and brought to Dan to remind future generations of his victory over them.
Tell Dan Nature Reserve
The geography of the region is interesting. Yehuda explained that the huge upper Galilee valley was formed as part of the eastern plate. Jordan and the Golan heights were formed nearby due to a rightward shift of the eastern plate resulting in the formation of Mount Hermon, on the border between Syria and Lebanon, where melted snow forms the source of the Dan River flowing through the reserve. Yehuda mentioned that most water from Syria ends up in Israel and eventually flows into the Jordan River.The ancient Tell of Dan is nearby. Dan, in Hebrew, means "judge". A "Tell" is a multi-layered ancient city that often rises above the ground in a hilly mound. Yehuda pointed out that the Syrian ash trees on the reserve are ancient in origin, and were used in construction for thousands of years due to their exceptionally straight trunks. The reserve also contains fig trees and bitter grapes.
The low springs are, apparently, the largest in northern Israel. The upper springs are near the Tell. Yehuda indicated that forest fires have destroyed many of the original ash trees. Fig trees have replaced many of them. In fact, we were very fortunate to have seen the site. Three days after we left a major fire swept through the reserve, destroying a third of it.
The low springs are, apparently, the largest in northern Israel. The upper springs are near the Tell. Yehuda indicated that forest fires have destroyed many of the original ash trees. Fig trees have replaced many of them. In fact, we were very fortunate to have seen the site. Three days after we left a major fire swept through the reserve, destroying a third of it.
Along the forest path, we stopped by the ruins of an ancient Byzantine flour mill, over 1500 years old. Remarkably, the mill was in operation until the 1930's.
Orex tree--->
Many migratory birds, coming across Africa to Europe can be found both in the reserve, and at the kibbutz where we are staying.
Sefat
After visiting the nature reserve, we continued onto Sefat, a lovely community that is at the heart of Kaballistic (Jewish mystic) spirituality.
<----Mount Meron
Every shabbat, the doors are closed then opened to let in the shabbat bride. One of the concepts of Kabbalah is that the world is broken, and it is our role to put it back together physically and spiritually.
The Mishnah, the great body of Jewish writings that have brought together oral traditions was written in northern Israel, including Sefat. As previously mentioned, the Zohar, which has enhanced the spiritual side of Jewish practice, was written nearby, on Mount Meron. It has been made popular in recent years by some popular Hollywood entertainers. Rabbi Infeld said that, indeed, study of Kabbalat, i.e., the body of mystical teachings of rabbinical origin, is a worthy undertaking. However, (Madonna, take note) doing so does not make a person a Jew. I can certainly attest that conversion takes considerably more than that!
Unfortunately, Safat has been experiencing chronic employment problems in recent years. In addition, recently the town has been more or less taken over by the Lubavitch community, which, itself, has two rival factions, making the atmosphere in living in the community bit more difficult. Further, its proximity to Syria and Lebanon made it a frequent target during the Lebanese war. Just two years ago, it was dangerous to travel up the hill to Safat. Still, today, we found ourselves passing through tranquil streets and enjoying the fine artisan shops and galleries on the way.
The Jewish quarter in Sefat
Our first stop in Sefat was the Memorial park, commemorating the Israel's victory in 1948 that made Sefat part of the Jewish nation.At that time, Sefat was two thirds Israeli and one third Arab. Sefat was taken over with barely a shot being fired. Apparently, when the Israeli army came on May 13th, 1948 they used very loud bombs which made the Arabs think nuclear weapons were being used. They fled, and the city was taken in less than two days.
Yehuda mentioned that, though the region has ancient roots, everything in the Jewish quarter was built after a huge earthquake hit the town in 1837 and destroyed most of what was there before.
Over the centuries, there have been huge economic changes in Sefat, particularly for Sephardic Jews who made aliyah from Spain. Founded in 1516, water was used to process wool from sheep raised locally. The wool was sold in Tyre, and, as a result, Sefat prospered. However, wool production decreased markedly in the 16th century after the process for preparing and spinning it was industrialized in Europe. Sefat was soon excluded from the wool production market, and, as a result. Jews left for Europe and other places.
<---The musician in the photo to the left played beautifully, while the Rabbi and Yehuda spoke of Safat and its significance in the development of Jewish traditions over the past 200 years.
Miracles have an important role in Kaballah. As we were walking near a courtyard, I heard a tour guide explain that, in fact, everything is considered a miracle in Kaballah. It is a miracle, for example, that the sun comes up every day.
Synagogue in Safat. Inside, there is a low beam where, during the Lebanese war two years ago shrapnel from a missile flew through the open doorway in the middle of a service and struck it. Apparently, the missile fragment narrowly missed a congregant who was bending down to pass beneath the beam. Another miracle.---->
Residents of Sefat are also predominantly messianic. Many years ago, one woman became so convinced
that the messiah would pass by her home at any time, she remained outside constantly, waiting for him to arrive. Year after year she waited, going into her home only out of absolute necessity for brief periods of time. As a result the narrow street where she lived has been called "Messianic Alley".
Messianic Alley--->
Hilary and I became entranced by the high quality and reasonable price of art work in a number of the shops, so much so, that we nearly purchased a major painting. Happily, for our wallets, we ran out of time and had to rush out of the store to get back on the bus. I think that, if we had five more minutes to spare, we would have brought it home.
When we arrived at the bus, however, it was apparent that we could have spent a few more minutes spending money in that shop. For, just outside the bus, we found our Rabbi and the tour operator, Neal, dancing on top of a van with very loud traditional Israeli music playing in the background. Below them, on the street, were dancing some Israeli young men in traditional garments.
We learned that dancing in Sefat is a well-known part of an outreach, based on the Hasidic belief that spreading joy is a Mitzvah. The boisterous music and dancing is also a subtle way of reaching young street kids, and has been recognized as a successful way of attracting them into a more spiritual and constructive way of life.
<--Dancing in the street
A Jeep ride to the Golan Heights.
Leaving Sefat, we proceeded to a shopping mall, where about a half dozen Jeeps were waiting for us to take us into the Golan Heights. Along the way, we passed by Maya mango trees, a new species, produced in Israel, that has a red fruit. Yehuda mentioned that the delicious Maya mangoes are just emerging as an export product, so we may see it someday here, in Canada.
Once there, we piled into jeeps. Some, like the one that Rebecca, Naomi and I rode in, was open in the back. We thought the air might be nice. However, with the sun blazing down and dust filling the back of the jeep, we soon wished we were in an air-conditioned covered Jeep such as one Hilary managed to get into.
Our jeep driver was Egal, a tough-looking, chain-smoking, bald-headed Israeli. As he took us up into the war-torn fields up the Golan that were once major battlefields of the 1967 war, I could imagine men like him leading the assault.
We quickly left the paved portion of the road running along the Jordan River and started up the hill, along rough mountain roads. The jeep lurched wildly, causing us to hold on with our lives, and we dipped into craters (not pot-holes... craters!), and splashed through mountain streams. Nothing but a tough 4-wheel drive jeep or, perhaps, a military tank could make it in this terrain.
Along the way, we passed by a stand of commercial honey bee hives, standing in the midst of scrub brush and dry grasses. This is, of course, "a land of milk and honey"!
However, you need to watch your step up the mountain, as there were signs posted in many places warning of land mines in the fields. In all, over 300,000 were set by the Syrians, many of which are still buried here.
Finally, we arrived at the top of the hill, with the vast vista of the upper Galilee valley spread out below.
It was clear why the Israelis wanted to take control of this area in 1967. Prior to that, it been the site of large Syrian guns that regularly shelled the communities below.
The descent was easier, as our driver took us down a more humane road. We arrived back at the bus, hot, dusty and thirsty.
A Kayak ride down the Jordan River
The scene was set, therefore, for a nice cool Kayak ride down the Jordan River, our final event before Shabbat at the Kibbutz. It was such fun! The inflatable boats and kayaks we used had no keel, so we kept spinning in circles as they carried us along past laughing families having a picnic on the shore, young Arab and teenage boys swimming in the river who splashed water at us, and the odd rock or two. About an hour later, we hit the 'rapids'... really, just a low dam constructed for the effect, over which our little boat plopped into the river below. Finally, we were back on shore, and headed to the bus for the start of Shabbat and our second night at the Hagoshrim Kibbutz.
Shabbat at Hagoshrim
After such a long day, we were grateful to make it back to the Kibbutz, where we gathered downstairs in a meeting room to celebrate the start of Shabbat. It was lovely to find our friends and family together, celebrating our first Shabbat in Israel as part of the Beth Israel community. Afterward, we went upstairs where staff lovely Shabbat dinner dinner prepared for us. I am happy that tomorrow will be a day of rest.
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